Lizard's Mouth
West Camino Cielo, Santa Barbara · near Santa Barbara · Central Coast
Rock Climbing
At a glance
- Skill level
- all-levels
- Grade range
- V0–V7+ (top-ropes up to ~5.11)
- Best season
- Fall through spring; shadeless and hot mid-summer
Permits and booking
- Permit
- No climbing permit or fee; parking is a small forest turnout that fills on weekends. Subject to Los Padres NF fire and gate closures on West Camino Cielo (check the Los Padres alerts page) and adjacent Winchester Gun Club activity.
Worth knowing
- Good for a first timer
- No
Rock Climbing detail
- Climb types
- bouldering · top-rope
- Rock type
- Coldwater sandstone — wind-sculpted formations
- Route count
- ~129 problems across 16 sub-zones
- Signature routes
- Lizard's Mouth Traverse (V0+) · Ace in the Hole (V2) · Fritz Bulge (V7)
- Intl tip
- Go for golden hour but bring a headlamp and a rented crash pad from town — there's no shade and no facilities, and the small pullout fills fast on weekends.
The guide
The signature Santa Barbara bouldering destination — a sprawling field of wind-sculpted Coldwater sandstone with panoramic Chan…
In the Guidebook
Everything above is yours for free. The written guide to Lizard's Mouth — what it is actually like, and what we would tell a friend before they went — comes with the Guidebook.
Getting there
- Coordinates
- 34.5024, -119.8664