Mt. Shasta (Avalanche Gulch)

Southern Cascades, Mt. Shasta City · near Mount Shasta · Shasta Cascade

Mountaineering

At a glance

Grade
scramble
Elevation
14179
Best season
April–June for consolidated snow; summer brings loose scree & rockfall

What is here

Terrain
volcano
Amenities
Bunny Flat trailhead; Lake Helen high camp · Free wilderness permit + Summit Pass required · WAG bag required — pack out waste · Shasta Mountain Guides & others operate here
Best for
California's classic big-snow mountaineering climb
Features
California's iconic glaciated volcano · The state's classic snow-climb rite of passage · ~7,000 ft of climbing to 14,179 ft · A common first serious mountaineering peak (guided)

Worth knowing

Hazards
Rockfall in the Gulch, especially afternoons and once snow melts out · Steep snow above Helen Lake — self-arrest skills essential · Altitude and rapid, severe weather on an isolated peak · Avalanche danger in winter and spring — check the forecast
Beginner friendly
No

Guides, rentals and operators

Guided trips
Yes

Mountaineering detail

Skills
snow-ice · altitude · scrambling
Style
snow-route
Altitude
5
Route notes
California's classic glaciated volcano and the state's great mountaineering rite of passage — Avalanche Gulch is a class-2 snow climb of about 7,000 feet from Bunny Flat to the 14,179-foot summit, the most popular big-snow route in the state
Beta note
~14,179 ft; Avalanche Gulch Class 2 snow, ~7,000 ft gain from Bunny Flat; axe & crampons
Intl tip
Northern California's great solitary volcano and the state's classic mountaineering rite of passage — often a climber's first serious snow peak. Avalanche Gulch climbs ~7,000 ft from Bunny Flat to the 14,179-ft summit: a class-2 snow climb needing axe, crampons, and self-arrest, but no technical rock. Best April–June on consolidated snow; summer brings loose scree and rockfall. Above 10,000 ft you need a free wilderness permit AND a Summit Pass ($25/3 days), plus a WAG bag. A superb first big mountain, ideally guided.
Directions note
Park at Bunny Flat (6,950 ft) on Everitt Memorial Hwy

The guide

Mount Shasta is the great solitary volcano of Northern California and the state's classic mountaineering objective — for many c…

In the Guidebook

Everything above is yours for free. The written guide to Mt. Shasta (Avalanche Gulch) — what it is actually like, and what we would tell a friend before they went — comes with the Guidebook.

Getting there

Coordinates
41.4092, -122.1949

Driving directions

Keep exploring